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Doall 16 Lathe Manual

Doall 16 Lathe Manual Average ratng: 5,5/10 8254votes

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Doall 16 Lathe

Hey guys, Just acquired a DoAll LD1340 made by Romi, but also sold by BridgePort. Just wondering if any of you also own one of these lathes, in case you wanted to share, discuss, etc. Man, this is a beautiful lathe.

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Complete metric and imperial gears without changing any back end gears - I've longed for years for this feature. Got mine in fabulous condition and now want to put a new toolpost on it - a Create Tools Multifix clone, and am aiming for the 'E' size. If you have a multifix on yours, I'd love to hear what size you have on yours.

I'm going to move the FIMS #3 toolpost to the rear of the cross-slide to set up for second/third operations to reduce tool switching. Also curious if used/surplus parts exist out there - like the Micrometer Carriage Stop, faceplates, worklight (mine is missing), etc. Romi sells everything, but very costly. Can't find anything on eBay. Perhaps someone here has stuff they can offer?

The spring disengage of the carriage works great laterally, but the cross-slide doesn't fully disengage the handle. The slide stops and the handle almost disengages, but then pops back to engaged, then pops back out.

Repeats like this until I disengage manually. Is this normal behavior? Or should the handle pop out of engaged the same in both directions? (I've tried adjusting the spring from lightest to heaviest cuts - no change in cross-slide disengage behavior.) Any idea which part might be worn or need adjusting? The manual pump doesn't work on my apron - will take it apart tonight to see what's the matter. Makes a sucking (air) sound from below, and a whooshing sound above (cross-slide), so the o-rings and one-wey bearing valve seem to be in working order, so it's curious why oil isn't being pumped. I doubt the viscosity of the way oil (using 68 whereas manual asks for 150) makes a difference, but I won't really know until I get it apart.

Anyone convert the steady rest to use bearings instead of nubs? (echo, echo, echo) Torin. I've been using Romi lathes at work, and home since the mid 80's. I really think they are a great lathe.

With a digital readout, they almost give a Hardinge tool room lathe a run for the money(almost) A 13/40 Romi, and a DV59 is a perfect combination for the work I do. You won't find many used parts on eBay, and depending on what your looking for you might have to wait awhile if you order from Romi USA, they do always have a good supply of the cheap plastic levers they've been using for years.I just quoted for a set of four of those levers. I suppose if I don't reef on the new ones, they should last a while. But the top-left gear changer seems a little tough to switch between the three selections. Haven't found the right jiggle of the chuck let to let me ease the gear from one setting to the other. Wonder if it could be goo on the spline?

I should (albeit reluctantly) take a look inside the headstock. Could just be the design. I'm also considering a DROPros magnetic DRO for this lathe, since this will be the last lathe I ever own. Do you have DROs for just the carriage and top slide, or do you have a third for the compound as well?

I've been using Romi lathes at work, and home since the mid 80's. I really think they are a great lathe.

With a digital readout, they almost give a Hardinge tool room lathe a run for the money(almost) A 13/40 Romi, and a DV59 is a perfect combination for the work I do. You won't find many used parts on eBay, and depending on what your looking for you might have to wait awhile if you order from Romi USA, they do always have a good supply of the cheap plastic levers they've been using for years.I like your style, I built a 20 man shop from a DSM-59, a Romi and a nice Hardinge TRL I love turning work and that combo will get just about anything done in the size range.

Romi Lathes and a great buy, Good luck with it. Make Chips Boys!!

I used DoAll/Romi lathes for almost 30 years. I did all the maintenance and repairs and love the machines for their utility and accuracy. As for the pump oiler, The check valve may be stuck open. Also check the copper line that goes to it. That might have gotten dislodged or damaged if anyone ever had to work on the apron. Also check that the sight glasses are showing correct level and you aren't actually just pumping air.

Over the years the plastic sight glasses get stained and make it difficult to see the true oil level. You can double check oil level by fashioning a dipstick and sticking it down the fill hole.

The feed handle not disengaging properly may be a missing, damaged, or misadjusted ball detent. The first DoAll lathes we had got Accu-Rite DROs with glass scales they were accurate enough but couldn't tolerate any damage (glass scales breaking), misalignment, dirt or coolant inside. The later lathes got Newall DROs with custom brackets. The only problem we ever had was in cases of severe crashes and almost always needed just to be realigned. The newest generation of bar type DROs looks to be ideal for a small lathe. Our lathes were all equipped with Aloris AXA toolposts but I think we would have been better served with a BXA toolpost.

Whatever toolpost system you use, size it for a 13 inch swing lathe. The steady rest that comes with DoAll lathes is in my opinion totally inadequate for most jobs that you'd want to use a steady rest on.

The ID is too small, The rest pads are too far from the face of the rest, The lock knobs are too long. All of these things make it difficult to get your tool close to the supported area of your work piece. Adding rollers to it wouldn't make it much better. Aftermarket work lights are the way to go if yours is missing or damaged.

As for the pump oiler, The check valve may be stuck open. Also check the copper line that goes to it. That might have gotten dislodged or damaged if anyone ever had to work on the apron. Also check that the sight glasses are showing correct level and you aren't actually just pumping air. Over the years the plastic sight glasses get stained and make it difficult to see the true oil level. You can double check oil level by fashioning a dipstick and sticking it down the fill hole.I'll try and make this short, because I could write an entire chapter describing the procedures I went through to fix this, but suffice it to say the oil was right to the top of the sight glass (which is clean and clear), and it still sucked and pumped air. Mercruiser 502 Service Manual here. I even used a brake line vacuum to seal around the pump body and drew 25mmHg and it stuck there!