2001 Honda Shadow Vt750 Ace Repair Manual
Hi, Wayne engine 'BOG' is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in 'Carburetor Dip' It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store.
If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply. The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
Flygt Minicas Ii Manual. This DIY repair manual covers 1998-2006 Honda Shadow VT750, VT750C ACE, VT750DC Spirit and VT750CD ACE Deluxe. Clymer, M314-3. Honda Shadow 750 Service Manuals for many models including the VT750CD ACE, VT750DC Sprit, VT750C2 Spirt C2, VT750C Aero, and soon Phantom and RS models.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber.
Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system. Check the intake manifold for fissures. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to 'SUCK' the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect. Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment.
Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component.
Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was.
The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance. Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Free service manual Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Jun 23, 2018. Hi, Dwayne for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Jun 23, 2018. Hi, Billy and the usual suspects are: 1. Clutch cable adjusted too tight. Pressure plate center screw adjusted too tight 3. A broken clutch rod.
Slave cylinder piston stuck. Clutch plate missing from the clutch pack. Clutch plates have worn past minimum specifications. Clutch plates crystallized due to incompatible oil. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 27, 2018. Hi, David before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is 'IMPERATIVE' that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries. Ignition Switch not in the 'ON' position.
Engine Run Switch in the 'OFF' position. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty. FOB battery low or dead. Faulty ignition switch.
Faulty starter button. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch. Security alarm needs a reset. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
Starter armature or field coils have failed. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty. Faulty ignition relay. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
Check for engine trouble codes. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Aug 11, 2017. Hi, Nosey54 I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost.
If you are a little short on 'DRACHMA' and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. Bearings---SCREECH 2. Belts---CHIRP 3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ 4. Rear Chains---RATTLE 5. Cam Chains---CLICKIT 6. Clutches---CHATTER 7.
Cylinders---PING 8. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE 9. Fronk Forks---Plunk 10.
Gears---WHINE 11. Head Gasket---HISS 12.
Hydraulic Lifters---TAP 13. Pistons---SLAP 14. Radiators---GURGLE 15.
Rear Chains---RATTLE 16. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK 17. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ 18. Shaft Drives---WHIRR 19.
Shifting Trans---CLUNK 20. Solid Lifters---TICK 21. Starters---CLICK 22. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me '*****' For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Jul 19, 2017. Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1.